Venice at dusk: exploring the secret side of Venice

Venice, as I’m sure you know, has a rich and classical list of things to see and do. Those include the understated majesty of St Mark’s Square, the flamboyance of the Doge’s Palace and the romantic thrill of singing “Just One Cornetto” as you glide along the canals on a gondola.

Yet sometimes, sometimes, Venice feels overcrowded and a little overrated. All that means is that you’re in the wrong part (or in an inexplicably foul mood.)

Unlock Venice’s Secrets

Finding the secret parts of Venice is incredibly easy. At some point along your well-signposted, thronging route towards St Mark’s Square, just turn left. Or right.

Wander over the bridges and through the tiny back streets to see the real side of Venice. The beautiful side of Venice. Walk past gardens and parks, families having dinner, locals indulging in a kayak race…Retrace history in Il Ghetto, the part of Venice that lent its name to ghettos everywhere else.

Sketching in Venice

It’s a small area, really. And it’s safe to wander around. So, wander and walk. Take your time and just enjoy being away from the crowds.

That’s the secret to falling in love with Venice

Venice - Classical Romance

Venice and gondolas go together like New York and the Statue of Liberty. Like Paris and the Eiffel Tower. Like…oh, alright, you get the idea.

So I was intrigued when I caught up with true Venetian, Monica Cesarato, who took to the waters for the very first time aged 40, not on a gondola but in a sandolo, part of the Venetian tradition voga.

Explore Venice By Voga

“Yes, I admit it: I am Venetian and I’d never been on a boat,” she says. “But the term Venetian does not apply only to people who are born and live in Venice itself, but also to people who live in the province of Venice, an extensive area on dry land.”

I am Venetian and I’d never been on a boat.

Coming from Oriago di Mira, a countryside village on the River Brenta, Monica had never braved the waters of the Queen of the Adriatic.

Until now.

Her maiden voyage took place on a sandolo, a cross between a rowing boat and a kayak. Although it looks more stable than a traditional gondola, Monica disagrees. ”At first, I was afraid: the boarding wasn’t exactly promising. It kept rolling left to right and I suddenly remembered I wasn’t a good swimmer (Hey, I am a countryside girl!).”

Our friends Nan and Amelia and the BOAT! 

“Thankfully my friends told me to sit on the floor and that helped a lot. The rolling isn’t so bad when you are sitting and once I got into the rhythm I actually started to enjoy the view.”

Did it give you a different perspective on Venice? 

“It was like seeing the city for the first time. It’s amazing what you miss when you dash through the crowds, trying to avoid tourists or when you travel on the vaporetto all squashed by people.”

How was the Grand Canal?

“Between the excessive waves caused by the motor boats and the dangereous ones caused by the vaporetto, we passed from a very pleasant ride to a very scary one.

The Canal Grande 

“The girls were amazing, they kept control of the boat in such a way that made us scream: Girl Power!   There is no view in the world like this!

“The sun was just about to go down, the light was reflecting on the water, the waves kept breaking against our boat. I might be a local, but I never get tired of Venice.”

What happened next?

Monica’s friend Rene guided them away from the Canal Grande into some small side canals, Rii in Venetian.

The sun shining on Venice 

“I have to say this was the most enjoyable part. We slowly glided through the water into this amazing scenario. The tall walls of the palaces and house surrounded us.

“After cicchetto – Venetian tapas – and a nice drink, all taken whilst in the boat, we decided it was time to go back to dry land.”

Overall Impression?

“Well, I waited 40 years, but believe me it was well worth it!”

So there you have it. Next time I’m in Venice perhaps I’ll skip the gondolas and seek out my very own voga experience instead. 

Learn Italian In a Weekend with Monica Cesarato

Monica Cesarato is a native Italian who teaches both English and Italian in Venice. She also operates a B&B 15 minutes away from the city centre and runs weekend courses in Italian. For more details see her site or contact her at info@monicacesarato.com

Venice - Classical Romance

1 - Ride in a Gondola

Reclining in a glossy back gondola lined with scarlet trim, drifting through the twisting, narrow Venetian canals and watching the city go by…it’s experiences like this that make us dream of holidays.

Almost every tourist there will want to do the same thing, but that shouldn’t matter. Once you’re on board, ask your gondolier to take you to the quiet streets, away from the crowds.

Travel agents and tour operators may try to sell you a “gondola package” in advance – often sharing with strangers and joining a convoy. If you’d rather be on your own, simply wander along the quieter streets until you see an empty gondola and hail it as you would a taxi. Check the price before you get in and don’t expect it to be cheap.

Gelateria

2 - Eat Ice Cream – gelato

Either buy two scoops in a cone and walk away or pull up a seat in a gelateria and order as you would a drink in a café. Enjoy the range of flavours – and the low cost.

3 - St Mark’s Square – Piazza & Basilica di San Marco

Visit this iconic square in the glow of sunrise or sunset – and then get out. By day, tourists stifle the space and the nearby restaurants are as expensive and average as you can expect.

4 - Gaze at the Bridge of Sighs

This covered limestone walkway connects the old prison to the Doge’s Palace and earned its nickname from Lord Byron in the 19th century. He imagined convicts taking their final look over Venice from behind its bars before heading for incarceration.

The Bridge of Sighs – the Ponte dei Sospiri – hangs high above the water, making it look smaller than I had imagined from the classic postcard image. It’s still a must-see, however, for free from the Ponte della Paglia.

The Grand Canal from Rialto Bridge

5 – Watch the Grand Canal’s Traffic Go By

The Rialto Bridge – solid, sturdy and complete with its own souvenir stalls - offers one of the best views of the broad and busy expanse that is the Canal Grande. Watch the public transport barges plod along, the professional waiters swoop and swerve at the water’s edge, and expert gondoliers negotiate their way into their sliver of docking space.

The restaurants that flank the bridge are not cheap, but they do serve delicious food by candlelight, with surely one of the most romantic views in the world.

6 - Listen to The Four Seasons

Classical music whispers through the canals of Venice, with the city’s son Antonio Vivaldi, leading the chorus. Plenty of brief concerts, which usually include his most famous work – The Four Seasons, take place each evening in stately buildings and theatres across Venice.  

Venetian Glass - Centuries of Tradition

Venetian glass reigned supreme for its colours and original design, until the industrial revolution priced hand-made glass out of the market, . The glass actually comes from Murano – one of Venice’s satellite islands - but there’s no shortage of glass boutiques in Venice. Explore the different versions of taste – from monochrome glass-bead necklaces to life-size parrot statues.

8 - Eat black spaghetti

Cuttlefish ink  – which stains food purply-black – is a popular ingredient here – decorating both risotto and spaghetti. Choose spaghetti al nero di seppie from the menu.

Venetian Masks for the Carnival

9 - Wear a Venetian mask

These ornate – and slightly spooky – creations represent another venetian tradition that reaches back over the centuries. Designed for the Carnevale, a festival that dances across the two weeks leading up to Ash Wednesday every year, venetian masks flash their frozen smiles at you across the city.

10 - Wander around – and get lost

Venice includes 117 small islands, uses approximately 150 canals and has more than 400 bridges. Yet the compact, atmospheric nature of the city makes walking the best way of getting around. You’ll find all the “best” things, this way. Restaurants you like, ice cream, souvenir shops and that elusive Venetian experience – peace and quiet.

PHOTO CREDITS

Venetian Glass – Aquila, Gelateria – Sifu Renka, View from Rialto Bridge – curran.kelleher